How To Remove A Link From A Chainsaw Chain

bennett

Hi Guys, been a while since I've been to this forum but I have a question.

I went to the Husky dealer yesterday to purchase a new chain for my 346XP because the old chain had stretched to the cease of my aligning. The guy behind the counter told me that I could remove links from the chain and even showed me which links to remove and sold me a tool that I am suppose to use to remove the links. I though this was great until last night when I realized that if the link pins tin can be removed, this was going to be a tough job! I so pulled out my owner's transmission and could not find any information about removing links from the chain.

My question is... tin can or should links exist removed from a stretched chain? If so, what is the easiest way to do it?

Whatever communication would be a big help. Cheers!

formersawrep

Chains should not be shortened. If they have stretched, the pitch is no longer what it should be. It volition then cause impairment to the sprocket.

Chris J.

Sounds similar time for a new chain.

Also, from what I've read & heard (no actual experience), chain building requires a fair amount of experience. But I've been wrong earlier....

HiOctane

What kind of tool did the guy sold y'all? A cake with a punch?Its easy to practice if you got the correct tool,ive done it grand of time.When you punch out the rivet from the link,better use new tie straps with rivets on information technology to reassemble your concatenation its much easier to do.

bennett

Aye... he sold me the block and punch. Is that proficient or bad? Also, if I decide to try it, where do I get new straps and rivets?

njforestfire

bennett said:

Yes... he sold me the block and punch. Is that skillful or bad?

Depends on how much you paid...

How many sharpenings are left for the chain? IMO - buy a new chain. For you to have stretched out the existing chain, I would retrieve that there is not a lot of tooth left to sharpen.

bennett

njforestfire said:

Depends on how much you paid...

How many sharpenings are left for the chain? IMO - purchase a new chain. For you to accept stretched out the existing chain, I would think that in that location is non a lot of molar left to sharpen.

Naw... that's the bad part, the chain is like new, sharpened one time... cuttin practiced, chain oil running out with each tank of gas but constantly having to accommodate chain until I have run out of adjustment. Thats why I was looking to shorten the chain. Is there such thing as a "cheap" chain? Why would it be stretching then quickly?

formersawrep

What kind of concatenation is information technology? (brand, style, etc)

bennett

formersawrep said:

What kind of chain is it? (brand, fashion, etc)

Information technology is the chain the guy at the Husky place gave me. I believe it is an Oregon chain... beyond that, I don't remember anything else virtually it. I am assuming information technology is the stock type concatenation that came with the saw. (18" bar). Is the stock chain "junk"? I have read on this forum most putting a dissimilar size chain on the saw. Is that something I might need to try? If so, what do I need to get?

HiOctane

bennett said:

Yeah... he sold me the block and punch. Is that skillful or bad? Also, if I make up one's mind to try it, where do I go new straps and rivets?

Get your block fixed on something ,it works ameliorate.Get your tie straps from your concatenation saw dealer.Ask those with rivets on it.And use the sometime one(without rivet ) y'all just removed from your concatenation to bring together both pieces together.Utilize a ballpeen hammer to hit the rivets.Check if the drive link is nevertheless loose(not tight as well much ) afterward riveting.

Lewis Brander

Chain Repairing.

I have shortened upwards some old bondage on some of my one-time saws. I had some new ix/16" tie straps that I've used to shorten upwardly a nine/16" chain. The only problem was that when the chain was put dorsum on the saw, it would bind as it traveled effectually the end of the bar where the new tie straps were put in. Took me a bit simply found out the new tie straps were the problem. They were wider than the erstwhile ones on the concatenation. I concluded upwardly filing the edges of the tie straps to the same width (where they ride on the bar track) as the old necktie straps on the chain and all was just fine after that. The erstwhile chain was stretched and worn. I replaced the links that were croaky and had other issues and had to file them all to the same width as the old links were and so that the chain would work. Chains where I punched out and reused the old tiestraps I've had no problem with. Just something to think about. Lewis Brander.

HiOctane

Lewis Brander said:

I have shortened up some old bondage on some of my old saws. I had some new 9/xvi" tie straps that I've used to shorten up a nine/16" chain. The only problem was that when the concatenation was put dorsum on the saw, information technology would bind equally it traveled around the end of the bar where the new tie straps were put in. Took me a flake but found out the new necktie straps were the problem. They were wider than the sometime ones on the chain. I concluded up filing the edges of the tie straps to the aforementioned width (where they ride on the bar runway) equally the old tie straps on the chain and all was just fine after that. The old chain was stretched and worn. I replaced the links that were cracked and had other problems and had to file them all to the same width as the old links were so that the chain would work. Chains where I punched out and reused the old tiestraps I've had no problem with. Just something to think virtually. Lewis Brander.

Lewis,
Did yous ask for tie straps specific to your concatenation numbre like 73 LP,because they sshould exist exactly as the used ones on your chain.

cbfarmall

I remember Lewis might have trouble getting ahold of the exact ix/16 parts he needs. That he was able to notice whatsoever at all is probably remarkable enough.

Chris B.

HiOctane

cbfarmall said:

I think Lewis might have problem getting ahold of the exact 9/sixteen parts he needs. That he was able to find any at all is probably remarkable enough.

Chris B.

youre right,9/16 is not so mutual.

Lewis Brander

9/16" links:

Hello to all. The links that I used were repair links that came with the chain that was on the saw. The links were identical to the links on the chain. Can't remember the concatenation link numbers off paw, but the repair links I had were for that chain. There was an evvelope full of new L. and R. cutters, drive links and tie straps. I've used up most of the necktie straps in repairing the sometime chain on the old Disston. As you can encounter on the thread "Lewis Brander Collection" under EHP's section of the forum the old Disston was demonstrated and did fairly well. I've since gotten the right files to acuminate the sometime chains and she should exercise better next time. Take intendance. Lewis.

njforestfire

New 18" chains thru Baileys are under $12 I beleive and they always cut very well with minimal stretching.

bennett

njforestfire said:

New 18" chains thru Baileys are under $12 I beleive and they always cut very well with minimal stretching.

Yeah... part of my problem is that I am paying close to $23.00 for a new 18" chain... that'southward why shortening the concatenation looks appealing to me. Also, can anyone tell me what kind of life I should look from a chain? I know there are a lot of factors to consider, but what kind of life is anybody else getting from their chains?